Fish, Seafood, Soho
Alex Gunz
Manzi’s: Something a bit fishy

If you’re after retro-kitsch and enjoy the feeling of dining on a cruise ship, then Manzi’s might be the place for you. However, if it’s good seafood and professional service you’re after, then diners should consider a different venue.

Manzi’s: Something a bit fishy
Chinese, Holborn
Alex Gunz
The Hunan Man: Southern China, innit?

When you enter a restaurant and it’s brightly lit and almost deserted, things can go one of two ways. Either the evening will be a complete disaster, or this is a hidden gem that we shouldn’t be shouting about too loudly lest its popularity suddenly explodes. The Hunan Man fortunately falls into the latter camp, albeit after a decidedly inauspicious start.

The Hunan Man: Southern China, innit?
Middle Eastern, Notting Hill
Alex Gunz
The Barbary: Bigger, bolder and better

It is a truth universally acknowledged that sequels are never as good as the originals. When the exception disproves the rule, it’s therefore highly refreshing. Eight years on from the launch of the Covent Garden original (which your reviewer loved), the team at the Barbary have just opened their second venue. It’s a clear statement of intent, and also very good.

The Barbary: Bigger, bolder and better
Spanish, City
Alex Gunz
Ibai: Bringing Basque to Britain

“I like, I buy”, is a well-known expression much beloved of many who work in the City. It’s a happy coincidence that the latter declarative is homophonic with the name of Nemanja Borjanovic’s latest restaurant venture. Ibai is conveniently located for all those finance bro’s and their expense accounts, but anyone who wants to appreciate some of the best Basque cooking available outside Spain should make a point of visiting.

Ibai: Bringing Basque to Britain
Mexican, Mayfair
Alex Gunz
Fonda: Found my fondness

Think of Fonda as the younger sibling of KOL, perhaps the means of making Mexican more mainstream in the UK. Chef-patron Santiago Lastra created a small revolution when he launched his first restaurant in Marylebone. It was a homage to the cuisine of his home country but fused with a very British perspective. If KOL is for grown-ups (with a serious price tag attached), then Fonda is full of fun, capturing the joyfulness of all things Mexican and plonking it just off Regent’s Street.

Fonda: Found my fondness

European

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Little Social: Needs to think bigger (June 2013)

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After having thoroughly enjoyed Pollen Street Social on several occasions, I approached Little Social with some anticipation, intrigued as much as anything to see whether Jason Atherton could continue to work his magic in another restaurant formula or whether Pollen Street’s smaller sibling would be an example of brand-extension-gone-too-far, an unnecessarily bold incursion situated directly opposite its precursor.

Kaspar’s Seafood Bar & Grill (May 2013)

My dining comrades and I had been excited about a visit to Kaspar’s given its location in the beautifully refurbished Savoy hotel. Week-old restaurants inevitably have their teething problems and one should always read reviews (mine included) with a metaphorical pinch of salt, but the only one I had seen (Fay Maschler’s – a critic whom I generally respect) had lowered my expectations, given its relatively damning assessment.