If you’re after retro-kitsch and enjoy the feeling of dining on a cruise ship, then Manzi’s might be the place for you. However, if it’s good seafood and professional service you’re after, then diners should consider a different venue.
It’s hard to fault the ambition of Manzi’s. Then again, perhaps it’s no surprise, given that the group behind the venue have already given London their excessive takes on old school French and Austro-German dining (at Brasserie Zedel and Fischers respectively). Grandeur is their schtick. No expense has been spared on their newest venture, located on a prime piece of London real estate, just south of Soho Square. Manzi’s spans two floors and its décor is distinctly nautical. Think big – like marble mermaids – and also detail, such as silver crabs containing salt and pepper bedecking each table. At the same time, my dining comrade and I could not help feeling that the dining room was somewhat claustrophobic. The low ceiling didn’t work. But maybe it’s intentional, creating that unnerving feeling of really being aboard a ship.
The crowds certainly seem to love Manzi’s, if for nothing else than it being a talking point. On the midweek night when we visited, the venue was largely full but sadly under-staffed. The lady checking coats doubled as front of house. She later brought water to our table too. At least she did a better job than some of her colleagues. It was a struggle getting anyone’s attention for a glass of wine. Most egregiously, a second plate of oysters bizarrely appeared at our table, despite not having ordered it. When we explained the error, rather than apologising, our server looked affronted – never a good touch.
The oysters were the culinary highpoint for us. Admittedly little work is required on the part of the restaurant with this dish. Our sextet of seaborne creatures expressed their very essence: saline, meaty and pungent – bravo. Everything after felt like something of an anti-climax. A sea bream ceviche was unsubtle in execution. The fish tasted old and distinctly lacking in flavour. Veal meatballs (our other starter) were unmemorable and also left a curious – fennel? – aftertaste. Manzi’s redeemed itself more with the mains, even if solid would be a better adjective than spectacular for our grilled king prawns and roast salmon with peperonata offerings.
We ended up paying around £70/head all-in, which is not unreasonable by London standards. However, we would have been happy to pay extra for a more successful outcome. On our way to Manzi’s we passed Maresco. It was with a certain regret that we did not dine here instead.