It is a truth universally acknowledged that sequels are never as good as the originals. When the exception disproves the rule, it’s therefore highly refreshing. Eight years on from the launch of the Covent Garden original (which your reviewer loved), the team at the Barbary have just opened their second venue. It’s a clear statement of intent, and also very good.
The angle is a very simple one: take culinary cues from the countries of the Barbary Coast – from Southern Europe to Northern Africa – and bring them to London. Think of it as an extension of the Ottolenghi zeitgeist. However, whereas the Neal’s Yard original contains just 24 covers, artfully arranged in a horseshoe shape around counter, its Notting Hill sibling has occupied the full space of a former gallery. The counter dining remains, but there are also tables and beautiful banquettes too. Large floor-to-ceiling windows allow for perfect people watching (and may inspire envy of passersby). Inside, the colour scheme works: rich hues of red and blue with a few sexy Art Deco twists too. On our weekday evening visit almost every table was occupied.
Beyond the vibe, the obvious story is the food. The menu changes with regularity, so what you see is what you get. There’s a handful of starters, mid-sized dishes and mains, but there is no pressure to choose formulaically. Everything is conveniently available for sharing too. My dining comrade and I selected two dishes from each of the initial sections, one main to share and an accompanying salad. It may sound perverse to begin by praising the salad, but it tells you everything you need to know about the Barbary. Tomatoes in the UK are rarely satisfying, especially when they are out of season. I don’t know where the Barbary gets its tomatoes from, but I want some. They were amazing, both sweet and intense. When combined with red onion and Tulum (or Turkish goat’s) cheese, it was a stunner of a dish. It also worked as a perfect foil to our coffee-rubbed chicken, apparently one of the venue’s most popular dishes. To taste it is to understand why.
Prior plaudits do not diminish any of the other dishes consumed. There were no duds, even if our squid did see a slightly over-judicious use of chilli spice. Try the fried artichoke and spiced labneh starter, or a dish of harissa beef tartare with a broad bean cream – assuming they are still on the menu – if you want to see just how the Barbary’s kitchen works its magic.
Drinks are no afterthought either. There’s a cool cocktail selection (not to mention the standalone cocktail bar (if you want to see the mixologists at work) as well as a thoughtful wine list. There was a range of offerings from boutique on-trend producers such as Comando G as well as many classics from Burgundy and Bordeaux. The soaring acidity of our South African Chenin served as a superb food match.
Price-wise, it’s not crazy, certainly by London standards. Food may set you back about £50-60/head. Assume double if you want drinks, but you certainly won’t be disappointed.