“I like, I buy”, is a well-known expression much beloved of many who work in the City. It’s a happy coincidence that the latter declarative is homophonic with the name of Nemanja Borjanovic’s latest restaurant venture. Ibai is conveniently located for all those finance bro’s and their expense accounts, but anyone who wants to appreciate some of the best Basque cooking available outside Spain should make a point of visiting.
Ibai, in Basque, has a more serious meaning. It translates as river, and is symbolic of the waters that flow through the land. The term is suggestive of a deep connection with nature. Anyone who has been to the region knows that this principle is well held. The team at Ibai (also behind Marylebone’s Donostia) adhere strongly to this idea. This is evident particularly in their selection of meats. These change with some regularity and we were treated at our meal to cuts from Black Angus cows reared in Castilla y Leon.
Meat, however, is not the whole part of the story at Ibai, even if it may comprise the centrepiece of any meal. Dining here constitutes a celebration of all things Basque, with some clear nods to the rest of Spain and neighbouring France. Fortunately my dining comrade is a regular at Ibai and counselled the ‘croque Ibai’ to begin. The venue has gained a certain repute for this signature dish. Each bite is a mouthful of decadence, a crossover of Basque prawns, cheese from the Savoie and black truffle. If such a concoction were not outrageous enough, then our other opener may win a prize for the best starter ever eaten that contains crisps. Yes, you read that correctly. The humble potato crisp is mingled with slices of ham at Ibai, and the whole Jenga-like assembly topped with peppers. To see is to believe. To taste is even better. Only chefs who are confident in the provenance of their produce would attempt a dish such as this.
Confident audacity is perhaps a superb description for Ibai – and that’s not just its diners. Sure, the team amply delivered with our T-bone of cow, but the foie gras side that accompanied it truly lifted the meat to a whole new level. Happiness is medium rare slab of cow, smeared with goose liver. A tomato and shallot side provided wonderful balance, as well as chance to salve somewhat our conscience.
Ibai is the sort of place where one can – and should – easily spend a whole afternoon. The converted warehouse holds 80 covers. While it did feel somewhat cavernous before fully filling up, the corner banquettes are wonderful for both intimacy and people watching. There’s much to like about the wine list too. Unsurprisingly, there is a strong Spanish and French showing, but pleasingly, there are bargains to be found too. We were delighted with our high-altitude Garnacha made by Frontonio. There will be a next time at Ibai, and I’m already looking forward to it.