The first thing diners notice when they step into Silva is the light. There’s a feeling of tranquillity. Maybe it’s akin to being in a forest glade, which would not be accidental since ‘silva’ is the Latin word for forest. Readers should get the impression then that aesthetics are a big thing at Silva. The food isn’t at all shabby either. Think of this restaurant as a combination of the refined and the relaxed.
Located on Bruton Place, home to several other high-end venues, is a statement of intent on the part of Silva’s owners. It was clear from our recent visit that no element has seemingly escaped the intention of the team. First, how best to create that tranquillity? Natural light streaming in from the front and the back of the building helps. So do the soft furnishings, particularly the curved banquettes that extend around the room. You could almost imagine yourself (pleasantly) inside a large seashell looking out. The modern artwork on the walls speaks to understated class. Servers glide by unobtrusively. A private room upstairs – which we were shown later – is a nifty touch and we could see easily how this would work perfectly for intimate group events.
The menu takes its cues from nature and where better perhaps than the Mediterranean, a region renowned not just for the beauty of its light, but also for the simplicity and charm of its cuisine. Silva is open all day and just as the sun moves in an arc, so does the tempo of its cooking, from the lighter to the more intense as the hours pass. Our visit coincided with lunchtime and so the focus was on delicacy and freshness. As ever, there is a distinct nod to the seasonal too. I began with a Cornish crab raviolo – a large piece of pasta packed with wonderfully light yet intense crab meat – while my dining comrade opted for an invigorating salmon tartare. Both were presented beautifully as was the main each of us opted for. The pictured wild garlic risotto topped with asparagus and morels perhaps captures the essence of Silva. It speaks of freshness, authenticity and execution. For larger appetites (and bigger wallets), the likes of wild seabass, lamb cutlets or duck breast are available.
We wisely left room for the venue’s Basque cheesecake, which was superb; wonderfully airy, yet full of flavour. A beautiful bottle of Albarino from Galicia helped wash everything down. Word to the wise, however: there are few bargains – read sub-£100 bottles – on Silva’s list. It’s Mayfair prices and a Mayfair experience, but one well worth it all round.