The dove is often associated with peace and love. The backers of this newly opened on-trend Notting Hill venue perhaps hoped to inspire both with their restaurant. Your reviewer felt neither when visiting last week, even if its potential was evident.
First impressions count. Abnormally warm early April weather means Brits want to make the most of it and be outdoors. Dove should be a prime spot, with several tables at the front of its restaurant, perfect for Spring vibes not to mention people-watching opportunities given its location, tucked just off the Portobello Road. Hopes, however, were dashed. Despite being offered a menu with the assumption that our server would be back moments later to take our order, this did not happen. Our server was back moments later, but only to hustle us inside to our table, which was now ‘ready’, even though given the early hour of our eating, it was unlikely that they would have needed to reset it. When asked if we could first enjoy a drink outdoors and then move inside, the answer was a curt no, as the venue, we were told, would get busy. This metaphorical Damoclean sword hung over us throughout the evening. To fast-forward, our bill was plonked (and this verb is not used lightly) on the table immediately after being told we had just ten minutes left before the next guests would be in our very seats.
Dove is, presumably, busy since they are doing something right. And to be fair, there is a lot to like. Head chef Jackson Boxer had built up a staunch following at his previous venue (Orasay) and has gone back to his roots. Rather than the pescine focus of his predecessor restaurant, Dove is all about ‘elevated comfort food.’ Forget beans on toast or mac and cheese and think ricotta dumplings or duck leg and cassoulet instead. The elevated – a term that appears on Dove’s own website – may also refer to the pricing. An ‘octopus gilda’ comprising literally one piece of octopus on a cocktail stick with a single olive and two pickled chillis costs diners a fiver. Seriously? A sirloin chop for 2 comes in at just under £100. There are few bargains.
At least Jackson and his team seem to know what they are doing in the kitchen. The menu composition, cooking approach and presentation all speak to culinary confidence and a willingness to do something a bit different. There is a tacit knowledge that what they prepare, they know how to execute well. Impressively, each dish that we ate got better. After the disappointingly expensive and chewy octopus came a lovely seasonal plate of Iberico tomatoes topped with sour cream and chilli crisp. This latter ingredient has become one of the chef’s hallmarks and brings a sexy piquant uplift to many plates. Next up (and pictured) was our server’s favourite dish – grilled prawns in a smoked garlic and black lime butter. It was a winning recommendation and the sauce so good that we requested bread to mop it up. The duck followed and pleased highly. Dinner was then rounded out with arguably the best panna cotta your reviewer has had recently. It was smooth and silky with a wonderful coconut crunch that provided contrast.
However good each dish was – and readers should probably not be surprised to see a caveat inserted – both your reviewer and dining comrade could not help feeling that they could have been a bit bigger. If you want to be comforted, then do it properly. Maybe this is the message to Dove: lovely venue (small, intimate, cool furnishings and décor) and talented chef, but to achieve full flight, improve the service and share more of the love.