Eating, especially in good restaurants, has to count as one of life's pleasures. It is also a privilege, and one for which this reviewer is grateful. The past year has seen more than 70 restaurants visited across 11 different countries. As of the end of November 41 new reviews had been posted to the Gourmand Gunno website in 2024, as well as multiple entries added to the Global Gunno page of favoured spots in non-UK cities. Below follow my highlights -
Best new experiences: All these venues have opened within the last 18 months and demonstrate the vibrancy of the London dining scene. For meat lovers, Ibai and Origin City are musts, with clear nods to Basque and Scottish cooking respectively. If you're keen to try cuisines that may be less familiar, then visit Donia for Filipino fun and Toba for Indonesian indulgence. Elsewhere, Los Mochis was memorable for a Mexican-Japanese mash-up, while The Barbary (mark two, in Notting Hill) brings brilliance to North African cuisine.
Best high-end meals: full plaudits to KOL, which seems to go from strength-to-strength with each visit, and deserves its ranking in the World's 50 Best Restaurants. Core remains on top form, as ever (even if no review was penned on this occasion). And for the more adventurous, the tasting menu at Akoko provides a wonderful showcase for West African cooking.
Outside the UK: a meal at Bar Crenn in San Francisco whetted the appetite for Dominique's three Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn next door, should finances and availability ever permit. Closer to home, Spain's restaurants provided no shortage of positive surprises over 2024, with meals at Horma Ondo in the hills close to Bilbao and Barro in Ávila being most memorable.
Outside of London: Gourmand Gunno enjoyed travelling to most corners of the UK over the last year and would be delighted to recommend Burnt Orange in Brighton, COR in Bristol and Asador 44 in Cardiff.
Old favourites that pleased once again: Delamina for Middle Eastern in Marylebone; Tayyabs in Whitechapel for still the best curried lamb chops in London. No new reviews added, but the original ones do them justice.
Local discoveries: admittedly only interesting for those who may be visiting London's W9 district, but both Da Daniela for pizza and Dhaba@49 for curry were serendipitous recent discoveries.
Finally, a couple of special mentions: (1) Panda's Kitchen in Harrow. Don't judge a restaurant by its exterior, but this venue served up amazing Sichuan food (2) Fonda on London's Heddon Street. Open for less than two months, this has all the makings of a classic venue, making Mexican more mainstream.