Shoreditch

Llama Inn: What, no llama?

Llama Inn: What, no llama?

Cool as the Llama Inn may be, it still doesn’t have it all. Sure, it’s located on the boundary of where Hoxton meets Shoreditch. It’s got a rooftop bar with stunning city views. It’s got a sister restaurant in Brookyln, New York. But – and of course there was going to be a caveat coming – it’s misnomer to call this a Peruvian restaurant. There may be some Peruvian nods, but they’re mingled up with many things Japanese and there is barely a llama to be seen in either the venue’s décor or on its menu. Maybe neither of these things matters, especially if you’re a hipster, but your reviewer and his dining comrade had hoped for a little bit more.

Bubala: Oh, my darling

Bubala: Oh, my darling

For those unaware, ‘bubala’ is a Yiddish term of endearment, roughly translated as darling. No surprise then that the restaurant is a homage to Levantine food, located appropriately in east London’s former Jewish quarter, yards from Petticoat Lane. Such has been the success of Bubala that its backers have recently opened a second outlet in Soho. Securing a table here is almost impossible currently, but the original venue provides a wonderful insight into what can be expected.

Manteca: Cheek by jowl

Manteca: Cheek by jowl

Think of Manteca as the love child of St John and Boca di Lupo. Take Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail approach, apply it to Italian cuisine and you have Manteca. After the success of its pop-up ventures, Manteca has moved on to bigger and better, opening a permanent venue in Shoreditch earlier this year. Such has been its success that diners are packed in almost cheek by jowl, but they come for a clear reason: the whole experience is very good.

The Clove Club: Brilliant, but not the best

The Clove Club: Brilliant, but not the best

It is hard not to pre-judge the Clove Club. The venue is the highest ranked British restaurant in the annual San Pelligrino top-50 list. Maybe as a result of its fame, it is necessary to reserve a table for a weekend evening three months in advance and – in a first for this country – pay for it all upfront. Against this background, I seriously expect to be wowed. What my comrade and I learned, however…