People love to make lists, however arbitrary they may be. KOL is one of only two UK restaurants to rank in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, placing at number 17. It must, therefore, being doing something very good. Your reviewer had written two highly praiseworthy pieces about KOL in the past (see here and here), but a recent visit to the venue demonstrated to our group of four – all of whom were previously familiar with KOL – just how much it had raised its already strong game.
KOL, to remind readers, is the lovechild of Santiago Lastra, bringing a small portion of proper Mexico to London, but fusing it with a very British perspective. Beyond just a restaurant (and a very cool bar specialising in mezcal downstairs), think of KOL as a research laboratory, or test-kitchen. The angle is a simple yet compelling one: sure, this is a Mexican restaurant, but KOL only uses British ingredients. The UK doesn’t grow avocadoes, for example. Not a problem for KOL – they will ‘construct’ one using ingredients such as sea kelp. It makes for a compelling narrative, and the results work too.
If you think you know Mexican food, then think again. KOL is the absolute antithesis of Tex-Mex. There may be tacos on the menu, but think of them here as being dainty compositions, or metaphorical blank canvases on which the kitchen team can impose their culinary visions. One stand out iteration was a savoury circle upon which sat a langoustine enhanced by smoked chilli and sea buckthorn. On the topic of chilli – often seen as an iconic Mexican ingredient – at KOL, the story is about subtlety over strength. In good hands, chefs know how to deploy this spice judiciously, so that it enhances rather than overpowers any dish, leaving a pleasant tingling rather than a stringing sensation in diners’ mouths. Every time KOL delivered in this respect.
To dine at KOL is an experience. Some may object to the imposition of a tasting menu or nothing. It is also not for those looking to dine out on a budget. However, with ten courses, not to mention three amuse-bouches at the start, guests can expect to remain seated for at least three hours. Had we ordered the two additional optional courses (Wagyu steak and cheese), then we may have been there for even longer. Every item was brought to our table with a wonderful but far from overbearing flourish. The servers described the respective dishes – and the sourcing of the ingredients behind then – with clear passion, and presentation throughout was first-class. One of party was also delighted that, as a vegetarian, KOL ensured they were not treated as a second-class diner. In contrast to prior occasions at this venue, the options available here clearly matched their omnivorous equivalents. All our group savoured one vego course that was excellent, a ‘chilmole’ comprising tomato, burnt chilli, blackberry and anise honey. Stand-out for this reviewer from the multiple successes was perhaps the lamb saddle. There were no fails.
The quality of the drinks matched the food too. We were pleased to note that relative to some prior visits to this venue, the paired options demonstrated a marked improvement. The Sommelier has shifted their list away from Eastern European options (which had been the angle when KOL opened) to a markedly more inspiring yet still eclectic selection. Beyond some classic regions such as Germany’s Mosel or Italy’s Barolo, we were pleased to see choices from Tenerife and Slovenia too. Similar to elsewhere at the venue, clear thought had gone into composition. Word to the wise: if you want to visit, book early, since it is becoming increasingly hard to secure a table at KOL, and rightly so.