Has 28-50 had its heyday? Your reviewer initially encountered this inspirational and wine-democratising concept in the late-2000s, around its inception. Its Marylebone outlet received a Blog entry within the first six months of Gourmand Gunno’s website. The title of a 2015 review of the Mayfair branch – “Gone downhill” – perhaps tells readers everything they need to know. Nonetheless, 28-50’s backers have persisted. Its latest opening launched just post-pandemic and occupies an impressive site just north of Oxford Circus. Location notwithstanding, were your reviewer in the business of formally scoring restaurants, then 28 out of 50 would be a fair assessment.
First some background. The name of this mini chain relates to the theoretical boundaries, or degrees of latitude, in which wine grapes can grow either north or south of the Equator. Global warming might have shifted these parameters, but the concept is an elegant one. Xavier Rousset, its original founder, had pedigree from Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir and first hit London with the now (sadly) shuttered Texture. This restaurant had a phenomenal range of champagne by the glass. The idea of 28-50 is to do the same with wine, showcasing the drink at all price points and from all regions.
So far, so good. What about the food though? Even in a wine-forward venue, it really should not be an after-thought. A group of six recently visited, admittedly more for the wine, but the food underwhelmed. My vegetarian dining comrade pointed out that a spinach and ricotta tortellini main – her only option – resembled a dish from the 1990s. Given the diversity of the 2024 London food scene, surely the venue could have thought of something a little more original and inspiring. Omnivores are unlikely to be tantalised either. Cheeseburger, pan-fried pollock (poor man’s cod) and chicken supreme featured as choices. ‘Supreme’ certainly would not have been the adjective I would have applied to this dish – my reluctant selection. It was insipid and limpid, both to look at and taste. It’s not rocket science, but were I a chef here, I would just whack a bit more salt and pepper into almost every dish. The romesco sauce that accompanied my seared tuna starter was a pale imitation of any I had tried elsewhere, or even produced at home. The quantity was stingy too.
Others in our group were more fulsome in their praise, albeit perhaps dining here with lower expectations. A sceptic may say you get what you pay for. But, we’re hardly in bargain-basement territory here, with starters averaging £12 and mains coming in closer to £20. At least the wines – admittedly our own – helped things along. To the credit of the venue, corkage at £20 per bottle is highly favourable by London standards. In the final assessment, the attitude of the staff was perhaps most telling. They were well-intentioned but struggled to summon much enthusiasm.