Open now for three years, Burnt Orange has justifiably become one of Brighton’s destination restaurants. The team behind it certainly has pedigree. If the Coal Shed gained its reputation through excelling in cooking over coals, then the angle at Burnt Orange is to deliver food that has been prepared through smoking and flaming. Unsurprisingly, the venue is decked out in a range of… you’ve guessed it… shades of burnt orange. There’s a whole aesthetic concept behind this restaurant.
On the sunny weekday lunchtime when our group of three visited, Burnt Orange was humming pleasantly with activity. At the same time, the restaurant exudes an era of calm despite being located just minutes from Brighton’s beach and the touristy Lanes. We were fortuitous in securing the last remaining outside table – it is not possible to book these in advance – affording us an opportunity to both to people watch within the restaurant and envious passersby.
Before we got down to this activity (and the more serious business of eating), there was the menu to peruse. Everything, of course, is for sharing – what modern restaurant doesn’t advocate this cause, especially if it leads to possible over ordering. My dining comrades were game and we did indeed over-order, but at least we got to sample widely across the venue’s creations. There’s no shortage of ingredients that tick the zeitgeisty Ottolenghi-inspired box. Preserved lemons? Check. Zhug? Check. Labneh? Check. You get the idea. At least it’s done thoughtfully at Burnt Orange, combining the modern with the classic. Think of European principles overlaid with Middle Eastern verve.
A simple padron pepper plate from the snack section of the menu gave a clear impression of the potential to come. The vegetables were delicately charred and their smokiness relieved by a judicious squeeze of lime and a salt sprinkling finish. From the starters, the smoked lamb cigars (pictured) constituted the stand-out dish. Delicately tender lamb was squeezed into a deft pastry filling. A spiced yoghurt provided the perfect foil. It is apparently one of the dishes that has remained on Burnt Orange’s menu since opening. Mains were of a similarly high standard. I fell in love with a dainty barbecued chicken thigh set in a bed of garlic aioli-infused asparagus. My comrades were similarly laudatory about the lamb chops and monkfish, both of which benefited from thoughtful pairings.
With starters unlikely to push much above £10 and mains rarely creeping into the £20, not only do diners get great food at Burnt Orange, but for a reasonable price too. The wine list showed a similar attention to detail evident in the food. It was evidently well-intentioned in its composition, but our Albarino under-delivered versus expectations. A minor quibble from an otherwise great lunch. A future evening visit would undoubtedly be merited, offering the chance to sample the venue’s cocktails and hear tunes curated by Brighton local Norman Cook. Burnt Orange has shown so far that it can keep the party going.