Harrow is famous for its school, perhaps its eponymous hill, but little else. Although it is located less than ten miles from where this reviewer grew up, he was not aware of its dining options – until recently. Step forward Jay Rayner. I have long been a fan of the restaurant critic of The Guardian and have enjoyed several of his books, including My Dining Hell. This is a summary of his most damning reviews. 19 of the 20 places subsequently have shut. Fortunately, his recent piece on the incongruously named Panda’s Kitchen was praiseworthy – and rightly so.
Located on a fairly grotty stretch of road between two of Harrow’s many stations (on the Hill, and Wealdstone), Panda’s Kitchen is one of the best iterations of Sichuan food your author has recently experienced. I first fell in love with this style of cooking when in China in 2010. It’s a long way removed from the conventional Cantonese style with which most diners in the UK will be familiar. Forget sweet and sour with lashings of MSG. Instead, think chillis, mouth-numbing pepper and deep, comforting broths. All this and more is on display at this restaurant.
Do not expect formality at Panda’s Kitchen. The menus are laminated and the tables are wipe down, with no hint of a tablecloth or starched napkins. Focus, however, on the cooking. There is an extensive range of options, from standard a la carte, to seasonal specials vis a selection of hot pots for sharing. My dining comrade and I ordered a selection of five dishes across the table and were impressed with all. If you’re reluctant to have your mouth set on fire, fear not, for the kitchen is willing to dial down (or up) the heat as appropriate.
Pork dumplings, a Sichuan classic, seemed an obvious place to start. They were filled with meat and the chilli oil in which they sat sang with appropriate heat intensity. For the mains, it behoved us to try two of the seasonal specials: Sichuan Mao roast duck (pictured) and a dry-wok lamb offering, with lotus root. The former was an absolute showstopper, combining the crispy skin of roast duck with its tender meat, served in a bowl of shimmering soup that contained not just the obligatory chillis but all manner of vegetables too. The portion size was also very generous, with a full container left for us to take away at the meal’s close. In other good news, dining at Panda’s Kitchen won’t break the bank. With drinks (beer for one of our party and tea for the other) and service included, there was still comfortable change from £100.