Restaurant venues which seek to twin food cultures rarely work. They speak of concept or novelty rather than underlying culinary ability or inspiration. Despite my inherent scepticism, Tokyo Pizza – the restaurant’s name gives one a pretty clear indication of what to expect – is perhaps onto something. I have never eaten pizza in Japan and neither know not care to what extent the renderings at this venue are accurate, but the principle is certainly a great one: take the much-loved Italian dough base and then top it with Japanese-influenced ingredients.
There is, of course, more to Tokyo Pizza than simply this, as your reviewer found on a recent mid-week visit. The venue occupies the space where the Bombay Bicycle Club (a decidedly average Indian) formerly stood. It has undergone a marked transformation. Step inside and you could almost kid yourself you might be in Tokyo. It’s sleek, minimalist and kind-of funky. There’s also an outside area where diners can take in Maida Vale life from behind the protection of bamboo planters.
Food-wise, Tokyo Pizza is much more Japan than Italy. Even where Italian dishes feature, they have been ‘Japanified’. Take a burrata salad offering. Here, enoki mushroom and edamame have been added, with these cheese topped in a teriyaki glaze. Overall, expect a strong umami emphasis: soy features prominently, but in a good way. There are around half a dozen each of starters and salads from which to choose to kick things off, followed by ten pizza choices. My crispy fried squid starter had an explosive intensity I had rarely witnessed elsewhere. The fish was pleasingly ungreasy and the yuza mayonnaise added a tangy depth. Onto the main event, and my pizza (the Kinoko – pictured) comprised three different types of mushroom as well as the more conventional (mozzarella, ricotta and chives), all overlaid with a soy truffle glaze. It was both different yet wonderful. I wouldn’t want to eat it on a daily basis, but would happily revisit.
If you’re keen to stay on the Japanese track, then there is a range of sake options to try. Alternatively, stick to beer (admittedly Japanese rather than Italian), as I did. Pricing is what one might imagine for a pizza in a nice part of London, but expect to pay ~£30/head, all-in. Service was pleasingly attentive throughout with the staff maintaining a good and unphased attitude despite how busy the venue got (Rishi Sunak’s ‘eat out to help out’ mantra seems to be working). Make this a destination to visit; it’s definitely one of the more exciting dining options in the area.