Diners in the Carnaby Street area are spoilt for choice. Almost every cuisine under the sun is within walking distance. Passing trade might be necessary for survival, but it is far from sufficient. Dehesa ought to be a sure-fire winner, serving up Mediterranean-influenced small dishes at a reasonable enough price. Our group of two ordered five tapas-sized tasters. Only three were a marked success, which probably tells readers all they need to know.
Backed by the same group as Salt Yard, Dehesa has pedigree on paper. It also has a lovely corner spot on Ganton and Kingly with an ample patio for sun-snatching and people-watching, perfect for a late summer’s lunchtime. When your reviewer and dining comrade arrived, the venue was, however, almost empty. We were given a choice of tables, but then forced to move owing to a curious dripping, presumably from an overhead pipe. Not the most auspicious of starts.
Staff were keen to serve, if anything a little too much so. At least the menu is brief, with sections spanning fish, meat and vegetables. Each offers around five dishes. A group of two, we were told, should order between four and six. We opted for two meat, two veggie and one fish. It was hard to fault presentation in any of our quintet. The kitchen clearly emphasises artful dollops of on-trend aioli (spelt wrongly, for the record, on their menu) and the like. Perhaps a closer attention to what was being cooked might have been merited.
Things began promisingly with a burrata and heritage tomato dish. It’s a perennial winner, simple yet effective. However, it relies more on good sourcing by the kitchen rather than outright culinary genius. Second up was a pan-roasted Cornish cod fillet with sprouting broccoli and an accompanying herb velouté. Not very Mediterranean, one may argue, but competently executed nonetheless. Less promising were meatballs in what proved to be a highly one-dimensional tomato ragu. The only discernible taste was salt. We went from bad to worse with Dehesa’s ‘classic’ – per the menu – tortilla. Your reviewer has tasted tons of tortilla in both Spain and elsewhere. This had to be one of the most soulless renditions, dense and dry with no harmony or texture. An outright fail. Rose harissa glazed chicken did see the meal end on a high, at least. However, in the Darwinian world of central London, a 60% food success rate is simply not good enough, even with friendly service and reasonable pricing. Onto the next.