In Gourmand Gunno’s decade-plus of restaurant reviewing, Toba is the first Indonesian restaurant he has visited. This is anomalous. It is also not through lack of trying. Your reviewer remembers first trying nasi goreng when in Amsterdam as a teenager and loving it. The Netherlands is replete with Indonesian options, a legacy perhaps of its colonial history. London, however, is curiously lacking. Toba is therefore a very welcome addition. Other restaurateurs should follow in its footsteps.
Toba began life as a food stall in Camden Market and graduated to its own permanent site in St James Market (where Ikoyi was previously located, before moving to the Strand) last year. It is named after the chef-patron’s mother’s hometown in Indonesia. Many of the dishes are informed by recipes passed down from his mother.
Nothing on the menu should come as a major surprise to diners. Beyond Bali (which some guests may have visited), Indonesian cuisine bears many similarities with some of its Southeast Asian neighbours. In other words, spice plays a considerable role. Peanuts also feature strongly. Rice, or ‘nasi’ in Indonesian, comprises the main starch. Where the country’s food stands out is in terms of its colour and vibrancy. Toba also seems to embrace the principle of slow cooking. Meat was exceptionally tender and melded seamlessly with the spices.
There are around ten each of starters and mains from which to choose. Portion sizing is generous, particularly by central London standards. My dining comrade – a regular visitor to Bali – and I began with two sets of skewers, shared across the table. The grilled chicken with satay were textbook, but Toba really came into its own with an exquisite quartet of grilled ox tongue served in a ‘yellow sauce’. The menu description merits improvement, even if the dish was close on perfect in terms of pungency and depth. Mains pleased too, with a rendang (slow-cooked beef) and a marinated fish duo – shared across the group. Vegetarians have around half a dozen options from which to choose, and our spicy, stir-fried aubergine dish showed as much commitment from the kitchen as elsewhere. It again benefited from slow cooking
All this is enjoyed in a room that can hold about 30 covers. It is decked in mellow grey and gold hues. Staff are well-intentioned if a little gauche. A couple of super-cold local beers to begin helped smooth the edges, although diners beware – the wine list contains some fairly egregious bottle mark-ups. Maybe stick to the beer but enjoy the experience.