There’s always something very satisfying about discovering a new restaurant, particularly when it’s on your doorstep and you’ve walked passed it many times without crossing the threshold. Why the prior reluctance, readers may justifiably ask? Dhaba@49 is not located in the most salubrious part of the district and the predecessor curry house on its site was distinctly underwhelming. More importantly, scepticism overcome and meal completed, this is a venue very much worth revisiting.
Enter any restaurant and find it packed, but the team smiling and still able to accommodate a walk-in (i.e. your reviewer) is always a good sign. Many of the guests seemed to be regulars and there was a good mix of ages and nationalities dining. The constant stream of Deliveroo drivers arriving for pick-ups also augured well. People must be after the food and not just the restaurant.
For those unfamiliar, a ‘dhaba’ is a roadside restaurant, particularly prominent in northern India. Located at 49 Chippenham Road (hence the name), the venue draws chiefly on Punjabi culinary influences, although other Indian regional dishes also get a look in. The décor is distinctly 21st century London as opposed to roadside café. Think broadly plain walls, thoughtful lighting and a jumble of artfully chosen Indian artefacts adorning the windowsill and bar. There is also a downstairs space, which was seemingly busy too.
If in Punjab and dining at a dhaba, then it is apparently obligatory to begin with a plate of chaat. Diners can chose from Dhaba@49’s delightfully named ‘chaat corner’ where eight savoury snack options are available. Mine, the original ‘dhaba mix’ featured a combination of peanuts paired with onion and chilli and lifted by a finish of lime. It was tangy and spicy with good balance throughout. Onto the mains and desire to experience the novel took me to the patalia chicken, a northern Indian speciality. It was creamy and comforting with a judicious level of seasoning. It was accompanied by Dhaba@49’s crispy chilli cauliflower. I have tried creating various interpretations of this dish at home but have never quite managed to hit the highs achieved in restaurants. Not owning a deep fat fryer is probably the problem. This version was one of the best tried and I was told that such is its reputation that apparently two-thirds of Dhaba@49’s guests order it. Accompanying pilau rice was comfortingly fluffy.
With around a dozen each of vegetarian and omnivorous options, there would be no shortage of other dishes to try on a return visit – even if the cauliflower would be repeated. Pricing is another positive, with starters in the £5-10 range and very few mains above £20. A return visit is definitely in order.