Just moments from Cardiff’s Principality Stadium, central train station and main shopping street, diners can imagine themselves transported to Spain. Parador 44 is a wonderfully conceived venture, set up by an enterprising couple of brothers. Visitors can sip sherry, eat top Basque-influenced nosh and then sleep upstairs in a handful of boutique hotel rooms. There is every reason to do all three.
For those unaware, asador is the Spanish word for ‘grill.’ Unsurprisingly, then, meat features as a centrepiece at the venue’s restaurant. The large dining space contains a partially open kitchen but also on view are hanging fridges where the meat ages (apparently for up to 70 days) as well as a dedicated cheese room and a wonderfully stocked glass-fronted wine cellar. The remainder of the dining space is completed by red brick walls. It’s a warm and comforting set-up, where diners are encouraged to linger. On the Friday evening when our group of ten visited, the venue was packed. It was testament to the Asador team that they remained unflustered throughout the evening, even given the complex wine requirements of our group.
While the meat options – a slow-cooked lamb shoulder and a medium-rare beef sirloin - our group shared certainly delighted, Asador amply demonstrated its culinary capabilities across the dishes we sampled. Much of the key to culinary success is simple: take high-quality ingredients and prepare them well without unnecessary complication. Substance beats style. Bread is always a good benchmark for quality in any venue. Asador chars its bread in its grill and then pairs it with a sobrasada (cured sausage) butter. Inspired would be a fair description. The grill also played a starring role with a prawn croquette opener. Here, the fishy bites were elevated by a smoky charcoal mayo. A similar approach was taken with a monkfish main dish. Grill the fish and serve with olive oil, but then take it to another level – as Asador does – with a charred lemon lift and accompanying coal-roast peppers.
The same quality level was maintained through to the dessert course. Your reviewer normally tries puddings only in the interests of research, but he would happily have ordered a second helping of Asador’s chocolate mousse. The following day, breakfast delivered too, with Asador serving up a Spanish take on the classic shakshuka. Top a couple of baked eggs in a tomato and leek sauce with morcilla (black pudding) and many will be deeply satisfied. A quick word also on the wine list. While our group appreciated the BYO opportunity at Asador, its list of sherries and wines is impressively extensive. If staying for breakfast, then the ‘sherry Mary’ – or Bloody Mary with a shop of manzanilla – is a fitting finale.