Any pub that employs a chef with credible restaurant CV now feels it has the right to append the prefix ‘gastro’ to its name. Many have installed josper grills or wood fires to buttress their claims. Renovate on old boozer may earn extra points. The Baring doesn’t try too hard. It doesn't need to either. This neighbourhood venue lets its quality speak for itself.
It may take you some time to locate your bearings (and get over the gratuitous pun), for the Baring – named after the street on which it can be found – is located just off the Regent’s Canal where Islington starts to bleed into Hoxton. Locals perhaps want to keep the venue a secret, given how good The Baring is. Neither the exterior – traditional, late Victorian – nor the interior – stripped back and pine-heavy – will lead guests to expect too much. Where the Baring delivers is in terms of food, drink and hospitality.
The kitchen is headed by an experienced, ex-Dabbous and Bull & Last chef, who takes British and French classics and adds a few modern twists. Diners can imagine eating the likes of a beetroot starter accompanied by labneh and dukka, or a main of lamb with bagna cauda. I needed to look the latter up – a Piedmontese sauce of garlic, oil, anchovies and truffle, for the uninitiated. Preparation is artful and ingredients are thoughtful. The pictured quail shish starter was lifted by its bed of pickled red cabbage, while the lamb hails from the same estate that three-star Core uses to source its venison. Full plaudits, then, to the kitchen, even if my dining comrade felt some of his dishes were slightly over-salted.
At least we did not struggle with wine to wash everything down. The Baring has a lengthy and thoughtfully composed list, with few brand names and many novelties. Our chilled Austrian red proved a perfect accompaniment to the food. Staff were on hand to provide helpful suggestions, even if there was a slight tendency to up-sell. A night at The Baring may set you back around £100/head all-in and while not cheap, this level is consistent with other comparable venues. It’s also well worth it.