Diners in search of good food when visiting Brighton are not short of options. However, the Coal Shed should feature as a must-visit. Such has been its success that the venue’s backers have opened a second outlet in London which has been similarly praised. The Coal Shed represents a textbook study in simplicity combined with super execution.
The venue’s name should give visitors an expectation of what they are going to get. Yes, it’s about cooking over coals. The kitchen features the essential Josper grill while a daily changing blackboard complements the restaurant’s menu. Wherever possible, the Coal Shed sources its produce locally. It’s primarily cow, but there’s no shortage of fish options, while vegetarians are also catered for.
When my dining comrade and I visited on a recent weekday lunchtime, the venue was almost packed to the rafters, helped not just by its reputation but also since many graduating students were being taken out by their families. This perhaps explained the somewhat over-zealous nature of the staff whose keenness to take our order (presumably before the main rush) came across as slightly overbearing. That said, as the meal went on, the atmosphere improved and we comfortably lingered at the venue for over two hours, albeit helped by a wonderful bottle of well-priced South African Syrah. The décor is simple, but the Coal Shed manages to create both a sense of lightness (from the back area’s glass roofing) and intimacy.
It is, however, the food that mostly does the talking at The Coal Shed. There are around half a dozen starters and mains from which to choose as well as a dedicated steak menu. I opted for an octopus opener (my comrade chose crab). This was a great opportunity to see the grill in action. My dish not only looked beautiful – see picture – but had the taste to match. The octopus was juicy yet smoky and its pairing with a romesco sauce topped with chorizo and hazelnut crumb showed the chef’s culinary innovation paying off. Our two ribeye cuts for mains were grilled to perfection. Our sides only added to the experience. Often these might be considered an afterthought, but both the smoked garlic mushrooms and tenderstem broccoli in ‘nduja butter played far from second foils. There was no room for dessert, but a return visit would certainly be in order. Rumour has it that the Coal Shed’s Sunday Roast is to die for.