Switzerland may be famous for many things and among them cheese and chocolate, but the concept of a Swiss restaurant has never become entrenched, and certainly not in London. Maybe it’s because the long-established (and still much-loved by many) St Moritz restaurant on Wardour Street has become a beacon of Swiss kitsch, with its chalet-like interior, gingham furnishings included. Heritage, open since July, takes Switzerland into the 21st Century, a perfectly-pitched offering that has the potential to endure. There is nothing in the name of the venue nor that of the head chef (Aarik Persaud) to make diners think of Switzerland. The décor, a predictable combination of exposed brick and metalwork, doesn’t offer many clues either. The observant may note though the thoughtfully-chosen Keith Haring posters from the Montreux Jazz Festival. However, the pervading smell gives this venue an ineluctably Swiss sense: wood smoke and melted cheese dominate – in a good way. Despite there being no shortage of rich dairy products on offer (and we loved the homemade truffle butter which accompanied the bread), Heritage is about much more than just this. The food might not all be what a local purist would describe as ‘echt’ Swiss, but it certainly delivered. Take my dishes. First up was a smoked beef tartare starter, presented beautifully and assembled live in front of me with the only nod to Switzerland being the inclusion of what the menu called ‘potato hay,’ or curly crisps to you and me (see photo). This was followed by a main of Cornish (yes, you did read that correctly) hake, served with a lovely textured mustard dressing and complemented by borlotti beans. At least, we were informed, all the cheese is imported direct from Switzerland. A Kaltbach dessert platter showed just about everything that is good about the country’s cheese; savoury and smoky, paired superbly with truffle, walnut and figs. Many think – and rightly so – that Switzerland is not a cheap place. Yet, a 2-course set lunch for £24 (or 3 at £29) constitutes great value in central London. Sure, a la carte or the inclusion of wines would push the bill up, but based on what we experienced, there would certainly be cause for a repeat visit. The 60-cover venue apparently fills up in the evenings and the cocktails also come highly recommended.