Outdoor space and genuinely original culinary concepts that aren’t instant flops are a hard combination to find, even in London. Nonetheless, Dock Kitchen scores well on both counts, constituted a perfect place for a relaxed summer meal, and has the potential to be amazing, if only they upped their game in terms of service a bit. The attractions of the Grand Union canal running from west from Paddington to Ladbroke Grove and beyond has been known to locals for some time, but for those willing to venture somewhat beyond the central comfort zone, a trip is definitely merited. There is a generally relaxed vibe in the area, people passing time on barges, skating in a nearby park or just taking in the atmosphere. The Dock Kitchen fits in perfectly, located in a converted Victorian Wharf building that has become part of an urban regeneration project. Decked out in metal and glass, with local architects and artists providing the fixtures and fittings, the Kitchen feels like a cool, modern place. The outside dining area is extensive and affords a great opportunity both for people watching and to see the chefs in action. Even on a recent Monday night when my comrade and I visited, the place was close to being full, clearly a sign that they are doing something right. Established chef Stevie Parle (something of a local celebrity) has brought a highly innovative take to cooking, drawing influences from around the world. Diners get to choose either from a set menu which takes in one style of regional cooking and changes every three weeks or from a short but diverse a la carte offering. On this occasion, my comrade got to sample a selection of dishes from the Middle East, on offer in the set format, while I chose from the menu. Culinary options from almost all the continents were represented. My starter of squid on a bed of spinach leaves coated in a tahini dressing was executed flawlessly, reminiscent of food I had in eaten in Israel (or perhaps at the Palomar in London). My only complaint may have been the portion size, as I was definitely left wanting more. At least my appetite was set for the main, another superb concoction of pork, salsa verde and borlotti beans. My comrade also praised highly is mezze starter and grilled lamb main. We enjoyed this with a superb bottle of Pieropan white from the Soave region of Italy and the range of options across the list was also impressive. It was a pity, however, that we had to wait almost ten minutes after ordering the wine for it to arrive (at least the starters were cold and so were not in danger of suffering) only then to watch our server struggle ineptly to open the bottle. Surely a little more training might be in order? They also seemingly forgot my comrade’s dessert, for which we also had to endure a notable wait. In the grand scheme of the experience (and also noting that the set three-course menu is available for the amazingly competitive price of £24.50), these represent relatively minor quibbles, and there is every reason to go. You can’t reserve outside, so make sure you get there early!