The dictionary definition of antidote reads as a ‘medicine given to counteract the influence of poison, or an attack of disease.’ Fortunately, at this restaurant venue in Soho (located on the former premises of La Trouvaille), the promised solution is not medicinal, but just high-quality food and alcohol, a wonderful restorative either to the week of work (in our case) or to the hordes of tourists and shoppers on nearby Carnaby Street. The formula here is simple, but effective. There is a clear homage to France, from food to staff. We sat at the bar, snacked on some mixed charcuterie and cheese to begin, moved onto a satisfying main and accompanied this with a couple of good glasses of wine. We were impressed with the range of both meat and cheese, its freshness and flavour-intensity. Fortunately, countries other than France did merit some consideration, with ham from Italy and cheese from the UK sampled among the Gallic options. For my main, I enjoyed white asparagus, always a pleasure and especially when in-season. Rather than the default hollandaise, chef Michael Hazelwood opted for a ‘choron’ (a various on Bearnaise, with tomato paste added), which worked remarkably well. Again, there was no mistaking the freshness or provenance of the asparagus. Similarly my comrade raved about his seasonal lamb, accompanied with sweetmeats. Overall, the menu is inventive and diners also have the ability to rove across the menu, with no distinction made between starters and mains. The wine list also pleased, with many options available by the glass, and we enjoyed interesting (and fairly priced) wines both from France and Italy. What’s not to like then? Well, very simple: we were the only guests downstairs in the more informal bar area, and I believe I only saw one couple heading to the restaurant upstairs. Were we missing a trick, or are others? While my comrade and I did not struggle for conversation, it was slightly disconcerting – almost Marie Celeste-like – to see no-one else there and the staff struggling to find things to do. The emptiness almost echoed. We were told it had been busy yesterday, but surely anywhere on a Friday lunchtime in Soho ought to attract some trade. Full plaudits to Antidote for what’s it’s achieved, but it ain’t going to be around much longer unless something changes…