Hush: All about location (and not really the food) (June 2013)

The perennial refrain about the importance of location seems to be the key behind Hush’s success. Take away the impact of its beautiful and secluded outside area which is perfect for people-watching and the food is decidedly average and far from cheap. When my comrade and I dined here recently, we were fortunate enough to secure one of the premium outdoor tables (I would imagine the indoor would lack significantly in atmosphere, particularly during the summer months). The staff were perfectly friendly and were notably in no rush to move us on, so the overall dining experience was most relaxing. Neither my comrade nor I had any major complaints about our starters (Dorset crab with avocado and salmon tartare respectively), but £17 for the former seemed excessive given both the portion size and the relative informality of the setting. From my perspective, the tartate was enhanced by the presence of some judiciously placed capers, but there seemed to be limited evidence of the chillies promised by the menu. In terms of the mains, our cod fillet and tiger prawn Kerala Masala were both more sensibly priced. My comrade rated his cod highly, praising the freshness of the dish, although I was somewhat more disappointed with my curry, which seemed pared of all flavour and more about cream than anything else. On the positive side, the wine list deserves notable commendation: there is an extensive (admittedly European-biased) list, where every wine is available by the glass ranging from a highly competitive £5.25 up to over £20. A little more effort with the food – both in terms of originality of dishes and quality of preparation – and Hush could be onto a real winner.