There is something deeply satisfying about eating a slab of meat. Admittedly it is not an experience one would want to do every day, but when doing, it is worth doing properly. There are indeed few better places to enjoy such a delight than at Goodman, although be warned, the experience does not come cheap. The group (ironically backed by Russians, despite being purveyors of good old American cow) has been established in London for some time, but this was my first visit to their Mayfair outpost in around three years. The atmosphere is lively, but at the same time, Goodman retains some of the intimacy that the larger and more cavernous Hawskmoor restaurants lose. Moreover, whereas Hawksmoor plays to its quintessential British roots, Goodman is decidedly more international both in terms of décor and clientele. Ultimately though, it is the food that matters. Staff here were undoubtedly well-informed, talking us through the menu and also the cuts of the day, suggesting appropriate accompaniments and wine pairings, all conveyed in an enthusiastic fashion. My comrade and I opted to share 600g worth of T-Bone, brought to the table on a lovely wooden board and already dissected into chunks for us. Cooked medium-rare as we had requested, the meat was deliciously tender, with a melt-in-the-mouth quality. The red wine gravy and black pepper sauces both enhanced the taste. Our sides also pleased, rich buttery mushrooms and a lighter spinach dish, the latter flavoured with garlic and lemon. All of this was washed down with a couple of glasses of highly quaffable South African red wine, one of around ten options available by the glass. The only drawback: just as your stomach knows about steak, so does your wallet about Goodman. With water and coffees thrown in, we were pushing £110; far from cheap, even if very good.