Most regular London restaurant goers would probably not include central European food in either their list of favourite or trendy cuisines. Yet, there is a quiet revolution going on, and one that is potentially only going to get louder with the recent opening of Fischer’s. One of my two dining comrades on this visit had also accompanied me to Boopshi’s (another recent Austrian opening) last year, and while we enjoyed this experience, Fischer’s is in a different league. Indeed, after their success with the perennially popular Wolseley, one would expect Meseers Corbin and King to have thought carefully before deciding to embark on their opening of this project. Siting the restaurant at the northern end of Marylebone High Street may have been a masterstroke, a busy enough location to attract footfall from both local office workers and well-heeled shoppers as well as being not too inconvenient for the older European burghers resident in nearby north London, for whom such a restaurant should logically appeal, On the lunchtime when our group of three visited, the place seemed lively and populated by a diverse crowd of diners. Service was friendly and efficient and the atmosphere considerably better than in the over-rated Cotide which formerly occupied these premises. Fischer’s is explicitly modelled on a Viennese café and the attention to detail is faultless, with wood panelling, pictures and lighting all reminiscent of such a location. The large clock which dominates the central dining area is, however, a somewhat unnecessary addition: when I go to a restaurant, I don’t want to be constantly reminded of the time; quite the opposite, if it is a good one. A small quibble though, and tables towards the front are not so affected. Onto the food, and in true Austrian format, there is a range of dishes through from savoury snacks to indulgent puddings via hearty mains. Our group sampled a broad selection. My smoked herring starter was simple yet effective, and presented beautifully. The sausage option (diners can choose any two from a list of six) was enhanced by juicy sauerkraut and some of the best caramelised onion I have sampled anywhere. One of my comrades also highly rated his much healthier grilled sea trout main, praising its lightness, freshness and intensity of flavour. The wine also pleased, an Austrian Riesling chosen from a well thought-through list of mainly central European options. The other bonus, all this is available at keen prices: the sausage selection (with potato salad and sauerkraut) comes in at just £11, mains are mostly less than £20 and puddings average at about £6. Come here, sit back, relax and enjoy, be it either for food or for coffee and cake (the latter looked mouth-watering, but was not sampled on this occasion). Just don’t look at the large clock…