Sartoria (September 2012)

I first ate here over ten years ago and for no particular reason had failed to return since. However, for any restaurant to be able to maintain consistently high standards in a city with a dining culture as competitive as London's is testament to the fact that Sartoria must be doing something right. The sensation on walking in is one of comfort, namely discreet but far from overbearingly formal luxury and service. The main dining area is beautifully light and spacious with the tables set well apart. We only ate mains, but my veal Milanese and my comrade’s crab linguine were both prepared to perfection. The veal was tender and the lemon proved a perfect foil and the spinach a good complement. The sommelier informed us that the first wine we had suggested was not at the right temperature and so he suggested a suitable alternative, a touch that was appreciated and the wine in question (a Pinot by Banfi) was a pleasure to drink. All round hard to fault, although I would argue probably much better for business (i.e. this occasion) than I would imagine for pleasure. Cecconi scores significantly higher for atmosphere and the best Italian in London for me remains Locanda Locatelli, perfect for any occasion.